Life As Nomad

2026-09 Uzbekistan

After a brief family reunion in Shanghai, I embarked my solo travel journey in Uzbekistan 🇺🇿.

It has been more than six years since I last traveled solo in a foreign country: Back in February 2020, while I was still a single backpacker exploring in Nepal and Bangladesh, COVID hit and the world stopped, and so did my travel. Fast forward a few years, I have now started my own family and my priority has changed. Visiting new countries has become less appealing. Nowadays, we tend to travel as a family to the same kid-friendly countries (like China and Japan) and explore different cities. But an opportunity arose that gave me ten days of free time away from my family, during which I could visit essentially anywhere in the world. Knowing the country was only a few hours of flight time from Shanghai, I chose to visit Uzbekistan.

Located at the heart of the Silk Road in Central Asia, Uzbekistan has experienced rule under the Persians, Greeks (Alexander the Great), Arabs, and Mongols (Genghis Khan, Timur). Uzbekistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991 and began diversifying from its cotton industry to oil, natural gas, and mineral reserves.

I will be following the Silk Road west: Starting in Uzbekistan’s capital (Tashkent), moving to the great monumental city (Samarkand), and ending in the old city where all merchants once met (Bukhara).

在上海與家人短暫團聚後,我一個人開始了在烏茲別克的旅程。

距離上次獨自出國旅行已經六年多:2020年2月,當時我還是個背包客,獨自在尼泊爾和孟加拉遊歷。隨後新冠疫情爆發讓世界停擺,我的獨旅也隨之停止。幾年過去了,我現在已組織家庭,生活重點也徹底改變,去新國家旅行的吸引力也隨之降低。如今,我們一家人通常會去一些適合帶孩子的國家(例如中國和日本)旅行。但最近我遇到了一個機會,有十天的空閒時間可以暫時離開家人,到世界上任何一個地方旅行。考慮到距離上海只要幾個小時的飛行時間,我最終選擇了烏茲別克。

烏茲別克位於中亞絲綢之路的中心,先後經歷過波斯人、希臘人(亞歷山大大帝)、阿拉伯人、和蒙古人(成吉思汗、帖木兒)的統治。於1991年脫離蘇聯獨立後,開始從棉花產業伸延至石油、天然氣、和礦產業。

我將沿著絲綢之路向西行進:從烏茲別克首都塔什幹出發,前往宏偉的撒馬爾罕,最後到達所有商人曾經聚集的古城布哈拉。

#Uzbekistan #Country97


Having now spent a week in Uzbekistan, I inevitably compare the country to another “Stan” country: Turkmenistan.

Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan are neighboring countries sharing hundreds of miles of land borders. Back in 2019, I spent a month in Turkmenistan and noticed two things that struck me the most: 1. The Turkmen capital city looked extraordinarily clean, and 2. Turkmen people were very reserved in interactions with foreigners. Turkmenistan has an almost bizarre obsession with immaculate public spaces, white buildings, and controlled appearances – That is why Turkmenistan is often called “North Korea of Central Asia”. But it feels somewhat artificial and is only concentrated in the capital city of Ashgabat. Also, the political environment and restrictions in Turkmenistan make ordinary interactions with foreigners feel much more unusual.

In contrast, Uzbekistan’s cleanliness feels more organic and functional, and Uzbek people seem more genuinely curious about foreigners.

在烏茲別克已待了一週,我不禁將它與另一個「斯坦」國進行比較:土庫曼斯坦。

土庫曼和烏茲別克是鄰國,共同擁有數百公里的陸地邊界。 2019年,我在土庫曼斯坦待了一個月,當時有兩件事給我留下深刻印象:1. 土庫曼首都看起來異常乾淨 2. 土庫曼人在與外國人交往時非常矜持。土庫曼似乎對一塵不染的公共空間、潔白的建築、和井然有序的形像有著近乎怪異的執著 – 這也是為什麼土庫曼經常被稱為「中亞的北韓」的原因。但這感覺似乎有點刻意,而且只集中在土庫曼首都。此外,土庫曼的政治環境和限制也使得與外國人交往顯得格外不尋常。

相比之下,烏茲別克的乾淨整潔顯得自然樸實,烏茲別克人對外國人也比較抱有好奇的態度。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕


Here I am, at my third and final stop of my ten-day solo Uzbekistan trip, in the city of Bukhara.

If Tashkent is the modern Soviet capital and Samarkand is the imperial monumental center, then Bukhara is the best-preserved medieval city: It is compact and highly walkable. It consists mostly of mud-colored brick structures, way less flashy than the enormous monuments in Samarkand. You walk through narrow lanes and stumble upon a madrasa, a trading dome, or a tea house. Instead of spending the day looking at monuments, you spend it walking through a historic environment.

In Bukhara, wandering without a destination is arguably the main event. If there is one takeaway from this trip, it would be to leave a day on your schedule with nothing planned (if time allows). That is typically the day you think about what matters to you the most and what you want to achieve from your trip.

為期十天的烏茲別克獨旅終於來到第三站,也是最後一站:布哈拉。

如果說塔什幹是現代蘇聯首都,撒馬爾罕是帝國古蹟中心,那麼布哈拉就是保存完好的中世紀古城:它小巧宜行,主要由泥色磚瓦建築而成,遠不如撒馬爾罕那些宏偉建築那樣耀眼奪目。步行在窄巷中,你會不經意間看到一座伊斯蘭學校、一座貿易穹頂、或一家茶館。你不再整天參觀古蹟,而是終日漫步於歷史氛圍中。

在布哈拉,漫無目的地閒晃可以說是這個城市的精粹。如果說這趟旅行有什麼值得總結,那就是在行程安排中留出一天空檔(如果時間允許)。在這天,你會思考什麼對你來說最重要,和你希望從這次旅程中獲得什麼。

#Bukhara布哈拉

State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Chorsu Bazaar is a great place for local food and people watching.
市集是品嚐當地美食和觀察烏茲別克生活的好地方。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Chorsu Bazaar is a great place for local food and people watching.
市集是品嚐當地美食和觀察烏茲別克生活的好地方。

#Tashkent塔什幹
A lot of zeros but these bills worth no more than USD $30 combined.
雖然有很多零,但這些鈔票加起來的價值不超過$30美元。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Yandex Go is Uzbekistan’s version of Uber. Very inexpensive, used it a dozen times and most trips cost between USD $0.50 – $3.

When I walk around Tashkent, I am seeing a very unusual auto market: 80% of all cars sold in Uzbekistan are Chevrolet, an American car brand. But these cars are not imported – They are manufactured locally here in Uzbekistan. Chevrolet Cobalt is the best-selling passenger car in the Uzbekistan: It is cheap, simple, and has strong resale value.

Yandex Go 是烏茲別克的Uber。價格非常便宜,用過十幾次,大多在 $0.5 – $3美元中間。

烏茲別克有一個非常獨特的汽車市場:80%的汽車都是美國品牌 Chevrolet。但這些車並非進口,而是在烏茲別克本地生產。Chevrolet Cobalt是烏茲別克最暢銷的車:它價格低廉、結構簡單、而且二手車保值率高。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Yandex Go is Uzbekistan’s version of Uber. Very inexpensive, used it a dozen times and most trips cost between USD $0.50 – $3.

When I walk around Tashkent, I am seeing a very unusual auto market: 80% of all cars sold in Uzbekistan are Chevrolet, an American car brand. But these cars are not imported – They are manufactured locally here in Uzbekistan. Chevrolet Cobalt is the best-selling passenger car in the Uzbekistan: It is cheap, simple, and has strong resale value.

Yandex Go 是烏茲別克的Uber。價格非常便宜,用過十幾次,大多在 $0.5 – $3美元中間。

烏茲別克有一個非常獨特的汽車市場:80%的汽車都是美國品牌 Chevrolet。但這些車並非進口,而是在烏茲別克本地生產。Chevrolet Cobalt是烏茲別克最暢銷的車:它價格低廉、結構簡單、而且二手車保值率高。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Uzbek marinades and local Sarbast beer.
烏茲別克醃料和當地啤酒。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Uzbek marinades and local Sarbast beer.
烏茲別克醃料和當地啤酒。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Uzbek marinades and local Sarbast beer.
烏茲別克醃料和當地啤酒。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Late-Soviet modernism mixed with Uzbek geometric theme.
蘇聯後期現代主義與烏茲別克幾何主題的融合。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Late-Soviet modernism mixed with Uzbek geometric theme.
蘇聯後期現代主義與烏茲別克幾何主題的融合。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Late-Soviet modernism mixed with Uzbek geometric theme.
蘇聯後期現代主義與烏茲別克幾何主題的融合。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Another very Soviet-looking monument, the Monument of Courage commemorates the 1966 Tashkent earthquake and how the USSR rebuilt the city afterwards.
另一座蘇聯風格的紀念碑,勇氣紀念碑紀念 1966 年塔什幹地震以及蘇聯隨後如何重建城市。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Uzbek breakfast at the hotel.
酒店的烏茲別克早餐。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Tashkent Metro is a great place is see Soviet architecture. Each station showcases different Silk Road / cotton / Soviet cosmonauts themes.
地鐵站是欣賞蘇聯建築的好去處,每個站都有不同主題,例如絲綢之路、棉花、和蘇聯太空人。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Tashkent Metro is a great place is see Soviet architecture. Each station showcases different Silk Road / cotton / Soviet cosmonauts themes.
地鐵站是欣賞蘇聯建築的好去處,每個站都有不同主題,例如絲綢之路、棉花、和蘇聯太空人。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Tashkent Metro is a great place is see Soviet architecture. Each station showcases different Silk Road / cotton / Soviet cosmonauts themes.
地鐵站是欣賞蘇聯建築的好去處,每個站都有不同主題,例如絲綢之路、棉花、和蘇聯太空人。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Tashkent Metro is a great place is see Soviet architecture. Each station showcases different Silk Road / cotton / Soviet cosmonauts themes.
地鐵站是欣賞蘇聯建築的好去處,每個站都有不同主題,例如絲綢之路、棉花、和蘇聯太空人。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Tashkent Metro is a great place is see Soviet architecture. Each station showcases different Silk Road / cotton / Soviet cosmonauts themes.
地鐵站是欣賞蘇聯建築的好去處,每個站都有不同主題,例如絲綢之路、棉花、和蘇聯太空人。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Trying lamb samsa (Uzbek pastry) in Tashkent City Mall.
在塔什幹購物中心吃羊肉糕點。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Trying lamb samsa (Uzbek pastry) in Tashkent City Mall.
在塔什幹購物中心吃羊肉糕點。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Amir Timur’s Empire was a Turkic-Mongol dynasty centered in modern-day Uzbekistan. His era is Uzbekistan’s golden age, leaving behind Islamic architecture, science, and art in cities like Samarkand and Bukhara.
帖木兒帝國是一個突厥-蒙古王朝,於位現在的烏茲別克。帖木兒的時代被譽為烏茲別克的黃金時期,在撒馬爾罕和布哈拉等城市留下了伊斯蘭建築、科學、和藝術遺產。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Amir Timur’s Empire was a Turkic-Mongol dynasty centered in modern-day Uzbekistan. His era is Uzbekistan’s golden age, leaving behind Islamic architecture, science, and art in cities like Samarkand and Bukhara.
帖木兒帝國是一個突厥-蒙古王朝,於位現在的烏茲別克。帖木兒的時代被譽為烏茲別克的黃金時期,在撒馬爾罕和布哈拉等城市留下了伊斯蘭建築、科學、和藝術遺產。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Amir Timur’s Empire was a Turkic-Mongol dynasty centered in modern-day Uzbekistan. His era is Uzbekistan’s golden age, leaving behind Islamic architecture, science, and art in cities like Samarkand and Bukhara.
帖木兒帝國是一個突厥-蒙古王朝,於位現在的烏茲別克。帖木兒的時代被譽為烏茲別克的黃金時期,在撒馬爾罕和布哈拉等城市留下了伊斯蘭建築、科學、和藝術遺產。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Amir Timur’s Empire was a Turkic-Mongol dynasty centered in modern-day Uzbekistan. His era is Uzbekistan’s golden age, leaving behind Islamic architecture, science, and art in cities like Samarkand and Bukhara.
帖木兒帝國是一個突厥-蒙古王朝,於位現在的烏茲別克。帖木兒的時代被譽為烏茲別克的黃金時期,在撒馬爾罕和布哈拉等城市留下了伊斯蘭建築、科學、和藝術遺產。

#Tashkent塔什幹
An Islamic boarding school where historically young people lived and studied the Quran.
伊斯蘭寄宿學校,過往曾給年輕人在這裡生活和學習《古蘭經》。

#Tashkent塔什幹
An Islamic boarding school where historically young people lived and studied the Quran.
伊斯蘭寄宿學校,過往曾給年輕人在這裡生活和學習《古蘭經》。

#Tashkent塔什幹
An Islamic boarding school where historically young people lived and studied the Quran.
伊斯蘭寄宿學校,過往曾給年輕人在這裡生活和學習《古蘭經》。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Trying lamb samsa (Uzbek pastry) in Tashkent City Mall.
在塔什幹購物中心吃羊肉糕點。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Trying lamb samsa (Uzbek pastry) in Tashkent City Mall.
在塔什幹購物中心吃羊肉糕點。

#Tashkent塔什幹
State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
State Hazrati Imam Complex consists of some beautiful mosques and courtyards. 90% of Uzbeks are Sunni Muslims.
漂亮的清真寺和庭院。烏茲別克大多是遜尼派穆斯林。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Chorsu Bazaar is a great place for local food and people watching.
市集是品嚐當地美食和觀察烏茲別克生活的好地方。

#Tashkent塔什幹
Flying over Tomur Peak in the Kyrgyzstan-China (Xinjiang) border.
飛越吉爾吉斯斯坦與中國(新疆)邊界的托木爾峰。
Manti, kebab, and lemon tea for lunch, overlooking Bibi-Khanym Mosque.
餃子、烤肉串、和檸檬茶當午餐,俯瞰比比哈努姆清真寺。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan in early morning. Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.

清晨的雷吉斯坦廣場。雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hotel breakfast with a terrace overlooking Registan.
酒店早餐,在露臺俯瞰雷吉斯坦廣場。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hotel breakfast with a terrace overlooking Registan.
酒店早餐,在露臺俯瞰雷吉斯坦廣場。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hotel breakfast with a terrace overlooking Registan.
酒店早餐,在露臺俯瞰雷吉斯坦廣場。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hotel breakfast with a terrace overlooking Registan.
酒店早餐,在露臺俯瞰雷吉斯坦廣場。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Crystallized sugar made from grape juice is sold at bazaars. It is one of the classic sweets found in Uzbek teahouses – Just put a piece in your tea and let it slowly dissolve.
市集上販賣用葡萄汁製成的結晶糖。它是烏茲別克茶館裡的經典甜點之一 – 只需將一塊糖放入茶中,讓它慢慢溶解。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Crystallized sugar made from grape juice is sold at bazaars. It is one of the classic sweets found in Uzbek teahouses – Just put a piece in your tea and let it slowly dissolve.
市集上販賣用葡萄汁製成的結晶糖。它是烏茲別克茶館裡的經典甜點之一 – 只需將一塊糖放入茶中,讓它慢慢溶解。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Crystallized sugar made from grape juice is sold at bazaars. It is one of the classic sweets found in Uzbek teahouses – Just put a piece in your tea and let it slowly dissolve.
市集上販賣用葡萄汁製成的結晶糖。它是烏茲別克茶館裡的經典甜點之一 – 只需將一塊糖放入茶中,讓它慢慢溶解。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
After conquering India, Timur built Bibi-Khanym Mosque and named it after his wife. It was intended to be one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world at the time. Timur wasn’t merely building a mosque – He was essentially telling the world that his empire was capable of building things on an enormous scale.
征服印度後,帖木兒建造了比比哈努姆清真寺,並以其妻子命名,這座清真寺旨在成為當時伊斯蘭世界最大的清真寺之一。帖木兒不只是建造清真寺,他實際上是向世界宣告帖木兒帝國有能力建造規模宏大的建築。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
After conquering India, Timur built Bibi-Khanym Mosque and named it after his wife. It was intended to be one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world at the time. Timur wasn’t merely building a mosque – He was essentially telling the world that his empire was capable of building things on an enormous scale.
征服印度後,帖木兒建造了比比哈努姆清真寺,並以其妻子命名,這座清真寺旨在成為當時伊斯蘭世界最大的清真寺之一。帖木兒不只是建造清真寺,他實際上是向世界宣告帖木兒帝國有能力建造規模宏大的建築。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
After conquering India, Timur built Bibi-Khanym Mosque and named it after his wife. It was intended to be one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world at the time. Timur wasn’t merely building a mosque – He was essentially telling the world that his empire was capable of building things on an enormous scale.
征服印度後,帖木兒建造了比比哈努姆清真寺,並以其妻子命名,這座清真寺旨在成為當時伊斯蘭世界最大的清真寺之一。帖木兒不只是建造清真寺,他實際上是向世界宣告帖木兒帝國有能力建造規模宏大的建築。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
After conquering India, Timur built Bibi-Khanym Mosque and named it after his wife. It was intended to be one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world at the time. Timur wasn’t merely building a mosque – He was essentially telling the world that his empire was capable of building things on an enormous scale.
征服印度後,帖木兒建造了比比哈努姆清真寺,並以其妻子命名,這座清真寺旨在成為當時伊斯蘭世界最大的清真寺之一。帖木兒不只是建造清真寺,他實際上是向世界宣告帖木兒帝國有能力建造規模宏大的建築。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
After conquering India, Timur built Bibi-Khanym Mosque and named it after his wife. It was intended to be one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world at the time. Timur wasn’t merely building a mosque – He was essentially telling the world that his empire was capable of building things on an enormous scale.
征服印度後,帖木兒建造了比比哈努姆清真寺,並以其妻子命名,這座清真寺旨在成為當時伊斯蘭世界最大的清真寺之一。帖木兒不只是建造清真寺,他實際上是向世界宣告帖木兒帝國有能力建造規模宏大的建築。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
I took a two-hour high-speed train to travel from Tashkent to Samarkand. Uzbekistan purchased the trains from Spain for $20 million each to run on old Soviet tracks.
我乘搭兩小時的高鐵從塔什幹前往撒馬爾罕。烏茲別克從西班牙購買了這些每列價值二千萬美元的高鐵,在蘇聯時期的舊鐵軌上運行。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
I took a two-hour high-speed train to travel from Tashkent to Samarkand. Uzbekistan purchased the trains from Spain for $20 million each to run on old Soviet tracks.
我乘搭兩小時的高鐵從塔什幹前往撒馬爾罕。烏茲別克從西班牙購買了這些每列價值二千萬美元的高鐵,在蘇聯時期的舊鐵軌上運行。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
The Soviet-modernist Samarkand railway station.
蘇聯現代主義風格的撒馬爾罕火車站。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
The Soviet-modernist Samarkand railway station.
蘇聯現代主義風格的撒馬爾罕火車站。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Timur’s monument.
帖木兒紀念碑。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Pairing plov (Uzbekistan’s national dish) with local Sarbast beer, overlooking Registan.
在雷吉斯坦廣場旁吃抓飯(烏茲別克國菜)喝當地啤酒。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Pairing plov (Uzbekistan’s national dish) with local Sarbast beer, overlooking Registan.
在雷吉斯坦廣場旁吃抓飯(烏茲別克國菜)喝當地啤酒。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Pairing plov (Uzbekistan’s national dish) with local Sarbast beer, overlooking Registan.
在雷吉斯坦廣場旁吃抓飯(烏茲別克國菜)喝當地啤酒。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Kebab and lemon tea at a local tea house.
在茶館喝茶吃羊肉串。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.
雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.
雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.
雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.
雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.
雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hazrat Khizr Mosque.
基沙清真寺。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Hazrat Khizr Mosque.
基沙清真寺。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Manti, kebab, and lemon tea for lunch, overlooking Bibi-Khanym Mosque.
餃子、烤肉串、和檸檬茶當午餐,俯瞰比比哈努姆清真寺。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Uzbek-style hotel room in Samarkand.
撒馬爾罕的烏茲別克風格酒店房間。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Lagman (noodle soup) and plov for dinner.
湯麵和抓飯當晚餐。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Lagman (noodle soup) and plov for dinner.
湯麵和抓飯當晚餐。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
I signed up for a 3-hour walking tour where a local Uzbek guide shared historical context and local perspectives. The stories were fascinating, despite hours of walking under intense heat and the fact that monument fatigue was starting to kick in.
我參加了一個三小時的導覽遊,一位當地的導遊向我們介紹了烏茲別克的歷史背景和當地風土人情。儘管在烈日下走了幾個小時,也有點審美疲勞,但這些故事依然引人入勝。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Illuminated Registan after sunset. Registan was the heart of Timurid Empire’s ancient city of Samarkand, consisting of three Islamic schools that were built after Timur’s death. The mosaic outside the most famous one depicts a student (represented as a tiger) chasing knowledge (represented as a goat) under the guidance of a human-faced teacher.

日落後的雷吉斯坦廣場燈火輝煌。雷吉斯坦廣場是帖木兒帝國古城撒馬爾罕的中心,在帖木兒去世後由他後人建造的三所伊斯蘭學校組成。最著名的一棟外的馬賽克描繪了一名學生(被描繪成老虎)在一位人臉老師的指導下追逐知識(被描繪成山羊)。

#Samarkand撒馬爾罕
Ark of Bukhara.
布哈拉方舟。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ark of Bukhara.
布哈拉方舟。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ayvan, a restaurant that is part of a beautifully restored 19th-century merchant house.
餐廳是一棟精心修復過的十九世紀商人的家。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ayvan, a restaurant that is part of a beautifully restored 19th-century merchant house.
餐廳是一棟精心修復過的十九世紀商人的家。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Pavillon Kalon, a local coffee shop facing the city landmark.
一家當地咖啡館,面向城市地標。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Pavillon Kalon, a local coffee shop facing the city landmark.
一家當地咖啡館,面向城市地標。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Pavillon Kalon, a local coffee shop facing the city landmark.
一家當地咖啡館,面向城市地標。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Chor Minor, famous for its four distinctive turquoise-topped towers.
四塔清真寺,以四座獨特的綠松石塔而聞名。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Chor Minor, famous for its four distinctive turquoise-topped towers.
四塔清真寺,以四座獨特的綠松石塔而聞名。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Traditional tea house experience.
體驗傳統茶館。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Traditional tea house experience.
體驗傳統茶館。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Poyi Kalan consists of an extraordinarily tall baked-brick minaret, a mosque with an open courtyard, and a madrasa. It is the most iconic architectural ensemble in Bukhara.
波伊卡蘭由一座高聳的烤磚宣禮塔、一座帶有露天庭院的清真寺、和一所伊斯蘭學校組成,是布哈拉最具代表性的建築群。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Poyi Kalan consists of an extraordinarily tall baked-brick minaret, a mosque with an open courtyard, and a madrasa. It is the most iconic architectural ensemble in Bukhara.
波伊卡蘭由一座高聳的烤磚宣禮塔、一座帶有露天庭院的清真寺、和一所伊斯蘭學校組成,是布哈拉最具代表性的建築群。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Poyi Kalan consists of an extraordinarily tall baked-brick minaret, a mosque with an open courtyard, and a madrasa. It is the most iconic architectural ensemble in Bukhara.
波伊卡蘭由一座高聳的烤磚宣禮塔、一座帶有露天庭院的清真寺、和一所伊斯蘭學校組成,是布哈拉最具代表性的建築群。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Haven’t worn a sarong since Indonesia. Probably not wearing it right.
自從印尼之後就沒穿過紗籠了,應該沒穿對。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Trading dome vendor selling Lenin / communism pins.
交易穹頂攤販出售列寧/共產主義徽章。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Trading dome vendor selling Lenin / communism pins.
交易穹頂攤販出售列寧/共產主義徽章。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Trading dome vendor selling Lenin / communism pins.
交易穹頂攤販出售列寧/共產主義徽章。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Traditional stork scissors and local blacksmith.
傳統鸛形剪刀和當地鐵匠。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Traditional stork scissors and local blacksmith.
傳統鸛形剪刀和當地鐵匠。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Uzbek non.
烏茲別克大餅。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Labi Hovuz, a great place to drink tea and people-watch by the pond.
池塘是個邊喝茶、邊看人來人往的好地方。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Labi Hovuz, a great place to drink tea and people-watch by the pond.
池塘是個邊喝茶、邊看人來人往的好地方。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Labi Hovuz, a great place to drink tea and people-watch by the pond.
池塘是個邊喝茶、邊看人來人往的好地方。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Bolo Hauz Mosque, with its elegant wooden columns reflected in a pond.
波路海斯清真寺,優雅的木柱倒映在池塘中。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Bolo Hauz Mosque, with its elegant wooden columns reflected in a pond.
波路海斯清真寺,優雅的木柱倒映在池塘中。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ismail Samani Mausoleum, with its geometric brick architecture.
伊斯梅薩馬尼陵墓,及其幾何磚砌建築。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah, featuring mythical birds and sun faces.
伊斯蘭學校,有特色的神話鳥和太陽面。

#Bukhara布哈拉
A very generous portion of breakfast at the hotel.
酒店提供的早餐非常豐富。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Sunset view at hotel terrace, overlooking the illuminated minaret.
酒店露臺看日落,俯瞰燈火輝煌的宣禮塔。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Uzbek-style hotel room.
烏茲別克風格的酒店房間。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Cats lounging around shops in the old city.
舊城區的貓。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Cats lounging around shops in the old city.
舊城區的貓。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ark of Bukhara.
布哈拉方舟。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Ark of Bukhara.
布哈拉方舟。

#Bukhara布哈拉
Does this gutter part look like a cobra or am I making things up?
這個排水溝看起來像眼鏡蛇還是我眼花了?

#Bukhara布哈拉
I downloaded a bunch of podcasts about Uzbekistan history and listened to them during my seven-hour bus ride from Bukhara back to Tashkent.
我下載了一堆關於烏茲別克歷史的播客,在布哈拉返回塔什幹的七小時巴士車程中收聽。

#Bukhara布哈拉